Pattern – Camomile Lawn Tea Cosy

Update 20.3.2011 – this pattern is now available as a Ravelry free download: http://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/camomile-lawn-tea-cosy

Time for another pattern. This one is a tea cosy called Camomile Lawn. (I really do need to learn how to take a non-fuzzy picture),

This cosy is knitted in two pieces and then sewn up. The flowers are made separately and sewn on after the cosy sides are sewn together.

If you use the recommended yarn you can make a smaller cosy just by changing needle size. The advantage of changing size through gauge rather than fewer repeats means that you end up with the same number of “butterflies” as on the larger version.

The bottom is knitted in a 1×1 rib with every stitch through the back of the loop. This gives a tighter fit and a neater rib but if you can’t face purling through the back of the stitch then just do a normal purl.

The sides of the cosy are knit top-down. This is unusual for a tea cosy but there are two reasons for the top-down structure.

Firstly, it allows you to get a better fit because you don’t have to guess where to start the top shaping. Secondly, these sweet little butterflies can’t be reproduced as well when knitting bottom-up.
The increases and decreases make the little ridges on the tops of their wings only when knit upside-down.

Pattern begins here.

Camomile Lawn Tea Cosy

Skill Level – Easy Intermediate. You need to know how to knit, purl, cast on and off, slip stitches, knit stitches together, make yarn overs. That’s it really so if you have only just learned how to do a yarn over this is a good project for you – the other stitches are just a combination of what you already know.

Finished Size larger version fits a teapot that is 51cm around the widest part of it’s belly. Measure as though the spout was not there. (Thread the measuring tape through the handle and have the ends meet either side of the spout. Add a few centimetres to your measurement to account for the bit you can’t measure because the spout is in the way). Medium version fits a teapot that is 45cm around the belly. If in doubt, make the medium size. The large size on my giant teapot is slightly loose.

Yarn – 2 Balls of Zara, Half a ball of cream/white superwash DK and a quarter of a ball each of yellow and green superwash DK.

Larger version tension is 22 stitches over 10cm using 4mm needles over pattern.
Medium version tension is 25 stitches over 10cm using 3.5mm needles over pattern.

You can really use any DK/8ply weight yarn you like. Zara works well because it’s smooth and springy so if you are substituting yarn try to find something similar so the patterns will be smooth and clean. For the flowers, any leftover DK from your stash is good. I prefer superwash as its (surprise,surprise), washable.

Needles – Larger version – 4mm for main body of cosy and 3mm for the flowers and leaves.
Medium version – 3.5mm for the main body of cosy and 3mm for the flowers and leaves.

Abbreviations
kfb means knit front and back. Knit the stitch as normal and then, without slipping it off the left needle, knit into the back of the stitch then drop the original stitch off the left needle. You have now created two stitches out of one.

sk2po slip 1, knit 2 together, pass slip stitch over the knit 2 together – 2 stitches have been decreased

Extras – Tapestry needle to sew in ends.

Main body of cosy – make 2 alike.
Using needles specified above and Zara yarn, starting at the top.

Row 1 – Cast On 6 stitches
Row 2 – p6
Row 3 – k1, kfb x 4, k1 (10 stitches)
Row 4 – p10
Row 5 – k3, kfb, k2, kfb, k3 (12 stitches)
Row 6 – p12
Row 7 – k1, kfb x 10, k1 (22 stitches)
Row 8 – p22
Row 9 – k6, kfb, k8, kfb, k6 (24 stitches)
Row 10 – p24
Row 11 – k1, kfb, *k2, kfb* repeat to last stitch, k1 (32 stitches)
Row 12 – p32
Row 13 – k2, *kfb, k2* repeat to end (42 stitches)
Row 14 – p42
Row 15 – k7, *kfb, k3* repeat to last 3 stitches, k3 (50 stitches)
Row 16 – p50

Top shaping is now complete, now for the butterfly pattern. I’ve started renumbering from 1

Row 1 – k50
Row 2 – p50
Row 3 – k1, *k7, yo, skpo, k1, k2tog, yo* repeat to last stitch, k1
Row 4 – p50
Row 5 – k1, *k8, yo, sk2po, yo, k1* repeat to last stitch, k1
Row 6 – p50
Row 7 – k50
Row 8 – p50
Row 9 – k1, *k1, yo, skpo, k1, k2tog, yo, k6* repeat to last stitch, k1
Row 10 – p50
Row 11 – k1, *k2, yo, sk2po, yo, k7* repeat to last stitch, k1
Row 12 – p50

These 12 rows form pattern. Repeat until you are only 2.5cm short of desired length, finishing on a row 6 or row 12.

Rib section. – All knit and purl stitches in the rib section should be worked through the back of the stitch.

Row 1 – *k1, p1* repeat to end.
Repeat row 1 five more times. Six rows of rib in total.
Cast off in rib – ensure you knit and purl through the back of each stitch while you cast off.

NOTE: For the flowers and leaves where the instruction says “cast on” use a plain knitted cast on (not cable cast on). This will give you curlier petals and leaves.

Leaves – make six
Using 3mm needles and a small amount of green DK yarn from your stash

Step 1 – cast on 20 stitches.
Step 2 – cast off 7 stitches then transfer stitch on right needle back onto left needle
Step 3 – cast on 4 stitches
Step 4 -repeat steps 2 and 3 twice more
Step 5 – cast off remaining stitches.

Centre of flower – make seven
Using 3mm needles and a small amount of yellow DK yarn from your stash

Step 1 – place a slipknot on your left needle (this is one stitch)
Step 2 – make 5 stitches by knitting into the front, back, front, back and front again of the stitch. You should now have 5 stitches on your right needle.
Step 3 – starting and ending with a knit row, knit 5 rows of stocking stitch. You should now have five stitches on your right needle with the right side (stocking stitch) facing you.
Step 4 – use your left needle to lift the second, third, fourth and fifth stitches over the first stitch on the needle. Cut yarn leaving about 12 cm and thread this tail through remaining stitch. You will have a little circle shape with two yarn tails.
Step 5 – thread yarn tail through tapestry needle and sew about 10 stitches around edge of circle. Pull tight to gather circle into a bobble. Tie yarn tails together.

Petals of flower – make seven
Using 3mm needles and about 25gm of white or cream DK yarn from your stash.

Step 1 – place slip knot on left needle
Step 2 – cast on 5 stitches then cast off 5 stitches. Move the single stitch left over from the right to the left needle without turning work.
Step 3 – repeat Step 2 four more times. You should now have five petals.
Step 4 – cast on 7 stitches then cast off 7 stitches. Move the single stitch left over from the right to the left needle without turning work.
Step 5 – repeat Step 4 four more times. You should now have a total of ten petals – half will be longer than the others.
Step 6 – cut yarn leaving about 20cm and thread yarn through remaining stitch. Pull tight to secure.
Step 7 – shape the five shorter petals into a circle and secure with a few stitches using the long tail of yarn threaded through a tapestry needle. The petals will have a natural curl so make sure they curl up and inwards towards the centre. Now shape the rest of the flower which has the five longer petals into a circle under the part you have already assembled. You should have a double layer of slightly ragged and curly looking petals forming a flower shape. Fix the shape with a few stitches through the base.

Assemble the tea cosy
Now you have all the parts, you can assemble the tea cosy. Don’t bother blocking if you are going to use the cosy to keep your tea hot. The heat of the teapot will undo any blocking. Also, the flowers are meant to look more like wildflowers than perfectly formed blossoms.

Checking the spacing against your teapot, sew up sides of cosy using mattress stitch. Leave openings for the spout and handle.

Thread the yarn tails of the flower centre through a tapestry needle. Sew through the middle of the assembled petals – this completes the flower. Use the yarn tails to secure the flower to the top of the cosy.

Use the yarn tails of the leaves to sew them to the top of the cosy. They only need to be secured at the top (hidden under the flowers) so they hang freely down the sides.

That’s it! Enjoy.